NO. Population: 1,200. Elevation: 840 m. Tucked into a valley reached only by a single unmade track, No has kept both its old quarter and the reserve of its people intact. Wander the cobbled lanes, take in the twelfth-century church of Santa Rotunda with its Romanesque doorway, and stop in the main square to try the local stew, of which there is none. Getting there: no road. Where to stay: no hotel. Best time to visit: none. The locals are a hospitable people who will greet you warmly and explain, slowly and in considerable detail, that no.